The Bogtrotter

Archive for January, 2009

Brancaster Circular Walk, Norfolk

by The Bogtrotter on Jan.26, 2009, under Britain, British Walks, Walks

This is a great 5 1/2 mile walk taking in several of the best things about walking in Britain in one go – salt marshes, a small harbour, some woodland, a common and a Roman fort.

Small harbour at Brancaster Staithe

Small harbour at Brancaster Staithe

Starting from the village of Brancaster the path goes across the marshes – mainly on a raised boardwalk to stop you getting your feet wet – to Brancaster Staithe.  You can often see the piles of reeds where the local reed-cutters have been at work – collecting the harvest for thatching local properties.

Brancaster Staithe is a small fishing port in the middle of the saltwater marshes, and seems miles from the sea itself.  Most weekends in the car park here you will find the cockle van, selling an amazing variety of seafood along with the obligatory cups of tea.

From here the route continues along the coastal path past the back of the White Horse hotel and the round mussel beds until you reach the track up to Burnham Deepdale. You then turn inland and the next stretch (the only bit of the walk along tarmac) takes you up the road towards the woods of the Downs.  In the summer the fields near here are awash with poppies, completely overshadowing the wheat crops beneath them.

Field of poppies near Brancaster

Field of poppies near Brancaster

You then get to cross Barrow Common – surrounded by the coconut scent of the Gorse bushes. The views from here stretch right across the marshes, giving you a full panoramic vista even though your only 50 metres above sea level.

The route then drops down towards Brancaster, and after crossing the coast road you end up in the Branodunum – the roman fort that gave the village it’s name. Although no remnants of the fort remain you can still clearly see the earthworks and outline of what was once there.

And then you’re back to your starting point at Brancaster.

You can download a routemap for this walk from the Norfolk County Council web site – it is the first half of Walk 09.

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Loseley Park Walled Garden

by The Bogtrotter on Jan.21, 2009, under Britain, English Gardens

In the few days that count as an English summer there is nothing better than a stroll around a beautiful garden.  Last July I was lucky enough to visit Loseley Park, near Guildford in Surrey, for a wander around their walled garden.

Gazebo in Loseley Park gardens

Gazebo in Loseley Park gardens

The garden is based on a design from Gertrude Jeckyl, and is split into several smaller themed plots.  The Rose Garden contains a good mix of traditional roses surrounded by low box hedges, in keeping with a historic garden.  The focal point of this area is the gazebo, with white roses crawling across it’s frame.  Other areas include the Flower Garden providing an almost garish splash of colour, in stark contrast with the tranquil serenity of the White Garden opposite.

My particular favourite was the Moat Walk, an old moat lined with a grass pathway and borders containing a magical array of flowers.  At the end of the moat is a stairway up through windswept flowers towards the dovecot.

Steps near the moat at Loseley Park Gardens

Steps near the moat at Loseley Park Gardens

And not forgeting the old Wisteria against the wall nearest the Hall, with it’s old branches that you think could have come straight out of a fairytale.

You can find out more about Loseley Park on their web site at www.loseley-park.co.uk.

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Bull Running in the Camargue

by The Bogtrotter on Jan.18, 2009, under France, French Experiences

Running the bulls through Le Grau Du Roi

Running the bulls through Le Grau Du Roi

If you have ever wanted to chase a bull down the road then this is your chance!

The Camargue region of Southern France is one of the last remaining wild areas of Europe. Across the salt marshlands you will see jet black horses mingling with the famous white Camargue horses. The area is full of ranches (manades or mas) where bulls are bred for their meat, but also to play with.

All the local villages have an arena, whils Nimes and Arles maintain their impressive Roman arenas. But unlike in Spain, the French prefer not to kill the bulls. Throughout the summer “Course Camarguaise” are held, where the competitors win prizes by grabbing ribbons from between the horns of the bulls.

Before and after these events some of the bulls are run through the streets, guides by the local “guardians” on horseback. The locals have one aim – distract the horses and guardians, and allow the bull to roam loose through the town.

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Pont Du Gard

by The Bogtrotter on Jan.18, 2009, under France, French Experiences

Some monuments are visible for miles around. Others just creep up on you and suddenly hit you between the eyes. That’s how I first saw the Pont Du Gard.

Pont Du Gard, France

Pont Du Gard, France

I’d heard a lot about how impressive this Roman aquaduct was, but until I was there it was difficult to believe. True – seeing the pale stone set against a pure blue winter sky did help, but it really was a stunning image.
Just like a six year old, I was darting around trying to find the best viewpoints. It’s great to be able to walk across, under and around the viaduct without seeing hundreds of warnign signs or having a warden shouting at you to “get off”.
For directions and a history lesson visit the official Pont du Gard web site at www.pontdugard.fr.
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