The Bogtrotter

The big sand dune of Pilat is a bit bigger than your average sand dune. At over metres high (between 105 and 117 metres depending on who you ask) it stands tall above the French Atlantic coast, just south of the holiday resort of Arcachon.

Said to be the highest of its kind in Europe. Pilat is also over two and a half kilometres long and 500m wide.

Head for Pyla sur Mer (the nearest village) and the dune will rise from the horizon in front of you. Anyone can walk on the dune, so just find somewhere to park, take a deep breath and get walking. Walking on sand is not easy at the best of times, but when you are climbing up the steep sides of the dune it is positively strength-sapping. But it is worth it for the beautiful views – of the coast on one side and the pine forests on the other.

The area to the south of the dunes is the featureless expanse of the Landes. From the top of the dunes you can see this vast pine forest seems to go on forever.

Apparently there have been problems with drivers falling asleep at the wheel whilst driving along the arrow straight roads in the forest, so the have now deliberately put bends and junctions in some roads to break up the monotony.

Once you have tired yourself out on the dunes, head back towards Arcachon and sample some of the famous Arcachon oysters. Oysters grown by the 350 growers in the Arcachon bassin account for over half of all the oysters eaten in France. And if they’re good enough for the French…..

Sometimes you just want to relax and watch the world pass by. At the Thermae Spa in Bath you can do exactly that – looking out over the rooftops of the city from the rooftop pool.

Bath has been renowned as a Spa town since Roman times, and the old Roman Baths have been a visitor attraction for years. But after the old Spa closed in 1978 there was no way for you to enjoy the hot spring waters. That was until the Thermae Spa opened in 2006, with the centrepiece being the futuristic New Royal Bath building.

One of the great things about the Spa is it is open to all, and you can visit for just a couple of hours. The highlight for me was definitely the open-air rooftop pool. Even though it was an overcast day it felt great to wallow in the warm waters and look over the historic buildings that surround the Spa.

The Minerva Bath inside is equally impressive, with the grand columns towering up from the waters to support the structure above. You really do feel a sense of indulgence as you move between the whirlpools and neck-massage jets. There are also steam rooms “gently infused with essential oils, such as camomile, jasmine and eucalyptus”, although I have to admit their benefits were lost on me.

For those looking for an extra touch you can treat yourself (or your loved one) to a spa treatment such as a relaxing massage or body wrap. Or you could combine two pampering treats in one pampering package – a session for two at the Thermae Bath Spa and an indulgent afternoon tea for two at Homewood Park Country House Hotel. And with just a little bit of imagination you could drift back 2000 years and be bathing with the Romans.

This is a classic 4 mile circular walk through one of the best parts of the Cotswolds, starting and finishing in the “Jewel of the Cotswolds” that is Broadway village.

Start from the centre of Broadway and follow the old High Street up and out of the village. If several of the buildings look familiar – it’s no surprise. This street is used as a setting for many historical dramas, with it’s chocolate box looks and untouched feel. Carry on up the hill past the car turning circle until you see a gate on your left with a footpath sign next to it. Take this path and go through the low arch under the bypass.

The path goes up and across the first small field, then curves up to the right. You pass through a gateway then cross straight over another couple of fields, climbing gradually until you reach a hedge at the far side of the fields. The walking here is wet underfoot as several springs come up in these fields, and it is difficult to plot a dry route. At the hedge turn left and follow the road for approx 50 yards until you see a path signposted through the woods on your right hand side. You then take the path through the woods, winding you way until you come to the busy A44 road.

After crossing the A44 you join the Cotswold Way National Trail and continue the gentle climb up onto Broadway Hill, and after five minutes walking you will see Broadway Tower appear in front of you.

Broadway Tower is an original British folly, built as a mock castle in 1799 for Lady Coventry, from which it is said you can view 13 counties from here. I’m not sure if it’s true, but the views of the surrounding countryside do make the climb to the top of the hill worth the effort. We stopped and had a drink whilst looking out over the landscape, watching a group of Red deer which were penned into the field alongside the tower.

Afterwards we went through the big car park and started our fairly steep descent down a track – heading straight towards Broadway. After about 10 minutes the main track appears to come to an end. Carry straight on around the house and you will see the path going across the field to your left.

The route from here is fairly easy to follow as you take a well worn path across several fields back to the village. There are numerous paths criss-crossing as you get nearer to Broadway, but it makes little difference which one you take. All eventually lead back to the High Street, where you can get you bearings and head for the obligatory post-walk tea shop for a well earned cuppa and a slice of cake.

To do this walk you will need to use Ordanance Survey Explorer Map OL45 The Cotswolds. Alternatively you can download the map from Anquet Maps.

The Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew are perhaps the most famous gardens in the country. It’s global importance is recognised by the fact that it has been a UNESCO heritage site since 2003. But while many people visit gardens in the summer – most don’t realise just how much Kew has to offer all year round.

I visited there in December and had a great day out. Whilst most of the outside flower beds are fairly bare, the historic glass houses offer up a series of delights for any garden enthusiast. There’s no better feeling on a cold winters day than walking into the misty tropical Palm House and being enveloped by the humid heat. The Palm House aims to recreate Tropical rainforest conditions, and the central trancept contains the tallest palms which are allowed to grow to their full height.

One of my favourite things to do at Kew is to climb up onto the walkways high up in the glass houses. In the Temperate House (the largest Glass house at Kew) you can look down on the world’s largest indoor plant – the Chilean wine-palm (Jubaea chilensis) which rises to over 16 metres tall. Being up in the rafters is a unique experience and gives you a completely different perspective on the plants and trees below.

The futuristic Princess of Wales conservatory has probably the most eclectic mix of plants, set in ten distinct climate-controlled zones. Plants include a magnificent range of Cactii in the Dry Tropics zone through to dripping wet epiphytic plants perched on tree trunks in the cloud forest zone. There are also some stunning Orchids in full flower, and don’t miss the Giant Water Lillies in the Wet Tropics zone. And there is even a collection of carnivorous plants to please kids of all ages.

So you don’t have to wait for spring to head out for a garden visit – with Kew’s glasshouses you really do have gardens for all seasons.

Why on earth would you go to Paris for the weekend? I can’t think of any good reason, apart from the iconic monuments, immense and diverse museums, chic cafe culture, and excellent food.

For those who haven’t been to Paris before, it’s hard to know where to start.  I would begin with a trip on the river boats – my personal favourites being the Vedettes du Pont Neuf which go from (unsurprisingly) beside the Pont Neuf bridge. The hour long voyage gives you the opportunity to get your bearings – as many of the key landmarks are visible from the Seine. The Eiffel Tower, Assembly National parliament building, the museums of the Louvre and d’Orsay, and Notre Dame Cathedral are all pointed out and described by the multilingual guides.

I’ve been lucky enough to visit Paris several times, so I’ve visited all the must-do sites. However I still keep going back, as I just love the atmosphere of the place.

Paris is a city best explored on foot.  Make sure you wander the streets – you will be surprised what you find.  Every area of the city has hidden treasures, from churches to arches to covered markets.  When you get tired, rest over a drink in a cafe and spend time people watching.  This is a distinctly Parisian pass-time, and one every visitor should indulge in at some stage during their visit.

And when it comes to mealtime – be adventurous.  There are so many restaurants it’s hard to know where to start. In many cases it is the unasuming discreet places that turn up the best food.  Get some ideas from the guide books then just get out there and try something new.  My last visit included a meal at Petit Canard, which has a menu almost completely full of duck.  There was duck liver pate, duck leg, duck breast, duck cassoulet, duck sausage – if you don’t like duck then it’s not the place for you!

If you can’t find enough to do to fill a weekend in Paris, then you need to broaden your imagination.  Just don’t try to visit everything in your first visit.

Cambridgeshire does not give you the most spectacular walking country, but for those looking for a gentle stroll through the fens should head for Stow cum Quy.  From here there is a lovely 4 mile circular walk across the fields to Lode Mill.

From the A14, go through Stow Cum Quy and turn left onto Station Road. Park your car near the small bridge about 1/4 mile along Station Road, and start the walk by standing on the bridge and feeding the swans and ducks.  Cross the bridge and take the path diagonally across the first field on your right (past the inquisitive horses) to join a wide track.  Follow this track for about 15 minutes, crossing the old railway line, until you come to a fork in the path. Take the right fork and you will come to a kissing gate. Go through the gate and follow the signpost along the edge of the fen towards Lode. You will then reach a footbridge on your right – cross this to get to the field opposite.

Follow the path around the field, and then it joins a broad grassy track. Shortly after there is a ruined building on the right, take the right turn here and follow the track behind the building. At a T junction turn sharp left along a track, then the path goes off to the right through a wood. Turn left in the middle of the wood and you come out into a field. Follow the track along the edge of the field (lined with old apple trees) which leads to Lode Mill.

From Lode Mill turn right and follow the riverbank back.  On the opposite side of the river you will see Anglesey Abbey (a National Trust property with a great garden).  As you continue you will have the strange experience of following a river that is higher than the surrounding land.  As the fens were drained the land has sunk, leaving the river flowing above two metres above the fields.  The river gentle winds its way back to the bridge where you started, and you will hopefully find the ducks and swans awaiting your return.

Another version of this walk (starting from Anglesey Abbey car park) and a simple map can be found here.

Those looking for a challenging but spectacular coastal walk should head for Etretat in France, where the chalk cliffs rising up from the English Channel create the magnificent image of the Alabaster Coast.  Etretat is a pretty little coastal town which is now a tourist honeypot, and the start of one of the best short walks you will ever do.  With the beach section only accessible at low tide you need to check the local tide times and ideally start about an hour before low tide.

As low tide approaches a group begins to gather at the western end of Etretat beach, and you can sense something is about to happen.  A short walk across the seaweed-covered rocks (and a splash in the rock pools if you’re so inclined) takes you to a metal ladder fixed to the cliff.  Climb up the ladder to a ledge and you can then walk through the tunnel carved out of the rock.  You are now the other side of the Failaise D’Aval arch, and on a much quieter beach enclosed by the mountainous strata-lined chalk cliffs.  Carry on across this pebble beach – with the Mannaporte Arch in front of you striding out into the sea.  When you reach the next arch go though this and down a ladder to reach another enclosed beach.  This one has a beautiful waterfall cascading down the cliff – the perfect place to stand and cool off from the summer heat.

One feature of this walk is it’s challenging nature. This is one place the Health and Safety brigade have failed to reach.  The rocks are slippery, the ladders are exposed, and there are no handrails or barriers on the open ledges.  It is not unneccessarily dangerous and can be done by any reasonably active person, but is not for those of a nervous disposition!

Another archway to go through to reach the final beach – from a distance I think this one looks like a silouette of the queen on a postage stamp.  This final beach is probably the best for sunbathing – and is much busier than the previous two.  At the end of this beach is a roadway which cuts through the cliffs.  From this road you can join the cliff path and follow this all the way back to Etretat.  The clifftop walk gives stunning views of the chalk cliffs – which seem to go on forever into the distance.

In the summer there are large crowds on the cliffs, and the numbers increase the closer you get back to Etretat.  But it is easy to see why – the scenery is unsurpassed.  Once you are back in Etretat – head for one of the great restaurants where you can try the local seafood (highly recommended) washed down with a glass or two of Normandy cider and calvados.

Going to the theatre is not something I do very often. It needs something special to make me want to go, and Rowan Atkinson is definitely special. He is starring in the current performance of Oliver at the Theatre Royal in Drury Lane, and I was lucky enough to be able to the show a couple of weeks ago.

Yes – Oliver the musical is all about the children and their songs about Food Glorious Food. But it is Atkinson in his role as Fagin that steals the show. He does on stage exactly what he has done on the TV screen for years – makes you laugh just by standing still. And when he does move or speak he captivates you and draws you into his (slightly surreal) world. Some of the movement is pure Mr Bean, whilst some of the dialogue bring back images of the Blackadder series. Either way – the performance is uniquely him.

To suggest that he is the only attraction though is unfair. I avoid reality TV like I avoid using public toilets where possible, so I was blissfully unaware of the “stars” that had been created in the selection process for the show last year.  The Theatre Royal is a magnificent setting and some of the songs make full use of the stage – filling it with a glitering kaleidascope of sound and image as the actors perform the highly choreographed sequences.

We just travelled down for the evening.  If you really want to treat yourself you can book an inclusive package with an overnight stay.  But whether you stay for a break or just have a great night out – you’ll leave the theatre singing.

Do you ever wonder what happened to traditional British puddings? You know – like the ones you used to have when you were younger. When everyone else started moving to fancy new deserts in the 1980s it was necessary for someone to step in to protect the good old British deserts.  Up stepped the Three Ways House Hotel in Mickleton with the now legendary Pudding Club, where members come along every week for an evening of unadulterated eating pleasure.

The evening starts with an introduction from the host – who explains the background to the club and the house rules. Then, just to get your juices flowing, he talks everyone through the seven puddings that are going to be consumed.

After a (very) small main course it’s on to the serious business of the night. The puddings are paraded into the room to rapturous applause. Amongst the familiar favourites such as Syrup Sponge, Spotted Dick and Eton Mess were unusual surprises such as Lord Randall’s pudding.  The object of the evening (aside from enjoying eating some fantastic puddings) is to try all seven dishes, and then there is a vote for the favourite pudding of the night.

This means you have to pace yourself.  When you start off, the idea of eating seven deserts seems easy.  But after three or four you realise that it’s not as easy as it sounds.  They were all fantastic, and made me realise how rarely I get to eat proper puddings these days.

House rules dictate you must empty you bowl before you can move on to your next pudding, so portion size control is key.  I managed to try all seven, and after much deliberation Eton Mess got my vote.  However the room was fairly evenly split, and the eventual pudding of the night was the good old Syrup Sponge.

For those who want to take the experience further, you can also stay in one of the hotels themed desert rooms.  Personally, having eaten seven deserts the last thing I wanted was to try to go to sleep in a room that reminds me of more puddings.

I joined the pudding club as part of the Activity Superstore package that included the Pudding Club meeting and overnight accommodation for two people – a perfect romantic treat for pudding lovers everywhere.