The Bogtrotter

Britain

Kew Glasshouses – gardens for all seasons

by on Feb.20, 2009, under Britain, English Gardens

The Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew are perhaps the most famous gardens in the country. It’s global importance is recognised by the fact that it has been a UNESCO heritage site since 2003. But while many people visit gardens in the summer – most don’t realise just how much Kew has to offer all year round.

Temperate House at Kew

Temperate House at Kew

I visited there in December and had a great day out. Whilst most of the outside flower beds are fairly bare, the historic glass houses offer up a series of delights for any garden enthusiast. There’s no better feeling on a cold winters day than walking into the misty tropical Palm House and being enveloped by the humid heat. The Palm House aims to recreate Tropical rainforest conditions, and the central trancept contains the tallest palms which are allowed to grow to their full height.

One of my favourite things to do at Kew is to climb up onto the walkways high up in the glass houses. In the Temperate House (the largest Glass house at Kew) you can look down on the world’s largest indoor plant – the Chilean wine-palm (Jubaea chilensis) which rises to over 16 metres tall. Being up in the rafters is a unique experience and gives you a completely different perspective on the plants and trees below.

Orchid in the Glasshouse

Orchid in the Glasshouse

The futuristic Princess of Wales conservatory has probably the most eclectic mix of plants, set in ten distinct climate-controlled zones. Plants include a magnificent range of Cactii in the Dry Tropics zone through to dripping wet epiphytic plants perched on tree trunks in the cloud forest zone. There are also some stunning Orchids in full flower, and don’t miss the Giant Water Lillies in the Wet Tropics zone. And there is even a collection of carnivorous plants to please kids of all ages.

So you don’t have to wait for spring to head out for a garden visit – with Kew’s glasshouses you really do have gardens for all seasons.

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Lode Mill walk on the edge of the Fens

by on Feb.14, 2009, under Britain, British Walks, Walks

Cambridgeshire does not give you the most spectacular walking country, but for those looking for a gentle stroll through the fens should head for Stow cum Quy.  From here there is a lovely 4 mile circular walk across the fields to Lode Mill.

Lode Mill

Lode Mill

From the A14, go through Stow Cum Quy and turn left onto Station Road. Park your car near the small bridge about 1/4 mile along Station Road, and start the walk by standing on the bridge and feeding the swans and ducks.  Cross the bridge and take the path diagonally across the first field on your right (past the inquisitive horses) to join a wide track.  Follow this track for about 15 minutes, crossing the old railway line, until you come to a fork in the path. Take the right fork and you will come to a kissing gate. Go through the gate and follow the signpost along the edge of the fen towards Lode. You will then reach a footbridge on your right – cross this to get to the field opposite.

Follow the path around the field, and then it joins a broad grassy track. Shortly after there is a ruined building on the right, take the right turn here and follow the track behind the building. At a T junction turn sharp left along a track, then the path goes off to the right through a wood. Turn left in the middle of the wood and you come out into a field. Follow the track along the edge of the field (lined with old apple trees) which leads to Lode Mill.

River Bank near Lode

River Bank near Lode

From Lode Mill turn right and follow the riverbank back.  On the opposite side of the river you will see Anglesey Abbey (a National Trust property with a great garden).  As you continue you will have the strange experience of following a river that is higher than the surrounding land.  As the fens were drained the land has sunk, leaving the river flowing above two metres above the fields.  The river gentle winds its way back to the bridge where you started, and you will hopefully find the ducks and swans awaiting your return.

Another version of this walk (starting from Anglesey Abbey car park) and a simple map can be found here.

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Oliver – I’d do anything

by on Feb.06, 2009, under Britain, British Experiences

Going to the theatre is not something I do very often. It needs something special to make me want to go, and Rowan Atkinson is definitely special. He is starring in the current performance of Oliver at the Theatre Royal in Drury Lane, and I was lucky enough to be able to the show a couple of weeks ago.

Oliver

Oliver

Yes – Oliver the musical is all about the children and their songs about Food Glorious Food. But it is Atkinson in his role as Fagin that steals the show. He does on stage exactly what he has done on the TV screen for years – makes you laugh just by standing still. And when he does move or speak he captivates you and draws you into his (slightly surreal) world. Some of the movement is pure Mr Bean, whilst some of the dialogue bring back images of the Blackadder series. Either way – the performance is uniquely him.

To suggest that he is the only attraction though is unfair. I avoid reality TV like I avoid using public toilets where possible, so I was blissfully unaware of the “stars” that had been created in the selection process for the show last year.  The Theatre Royal is a magnificent setting and some of the songs make full use of the stage – filling it with a glitering kaleidascope of sound and image as the actors perform the highly choreographed sequences.

We just travelled down for the evening.  If you really want to treat yourself you can book an inclusive package with an overnight stay.  But whether you stay for a break or just have a great night out – you’ll leave the theatre singing.

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Joining the Pudding Club

by on Feb.01, 2009, under Britain, British Experiences

Do you ever wonder what happened to traditional British puddings? You know – like the ones you used to have when you were younger. When everyone else started moving to fancy new deserts in the 1980s it was necessary for someone to step in to protect the good old British deserts.  Up stepped the Three Ways House Hotel in Mickleton with the now legendary Pudding Club, where members come along every week for an evening of unadulterated eating pleasure.

The evening starts with an introduction from the host – who explains the background to the club and the house rules. Then, just to get your juices flowing, he talks everyone through the seven puddings that are going to be consumed.

Display of Puddings ready to be eaten

Display of Puddings ready to be eaten

After a (very) small main course it’s on to the serious business of the night. The puddings are paraded into the room to rapturous applause. Amongst the familiar favourites such as Syrup Sponge, Spotted Dick and Eton Mess were unusual surprises such as Lord Randall’s pudding.  The object of the evening (aside from enjoying eating some fantastic puddings) is to try all seven dishes, and then there is a vote for the favourite pudding of the night.

This means you have to pace yourself.  When you start off, the idea of eating seven deserts seems easy.  But after three or four you realise that it’s not as easy as it sounds.  They were all fantastic, and made me realise how rarely I get to eat proper puddings these days.

House rules dictate you must empty you bowl before you can move on to your next pudding, so portion size control is key.  I managed to try all seven, and after much deliberation Eton Mess got my vote.  However the room was fairly evenly split, and the eventual pudding of the night was the good old Syrup Sponge.

For those who want to take the experience further, you can also stay in one of the hotels themed desert rooms.  Personally, having eaten seven deserts the last thing I wanted was to try to go to sleep in a room that reminds me of more puddings.

I joined the pudding club as part of the Activity Superstore package that included the Pudding Club meeting and overnight accommodation for two people – a perfect romantic treat for pudding lovers everywhere.

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Brancaster Circular Walk, Norfolk

by on Jan.26, 2009, under Britain, British Walks, Walks

This is a great 5 1/2 mile walk taking in several of the best things about walking in Britain in one go – salt marshes, a small harbour, some woodland, a common and a Roman fort.

Small harbour at Brancaster Staithe

Small harbour at Brancaster Staithe

Starting from the village of Brancaster the path goes across the marshes – mainly on a raised boardwalk to stop you getting your feet wet – to Brancaster Staithe.  You can often see the piles of reeds where the local reed-cutters have been at work – collecting the harvest for thatching local properties.

Brancaster Staithe is a small fishing port in the middle of the saltwater marshes, and seems miles from the sea itself.  Most weekends in the car park here you will find the cockle van, selling an amazing variety of seafood along with the obligatory cups of tea.

From here the route continues along the coastal path past the back of the White Horse hotel and the round mussel beds until you reach the track up to Burnham Deepdale. You then turn inland and the next stretch (the only bit of the walk along tarmac) takes you up the road towards the woods of the Downs.  In the summer the fields near here are awash with poppies, completely overshadowing the wheat crops beneath them.

Field of poppies near Brancaster

Field of poppies near Brancaster

You then get to cross Barrow Common – surrounded by the coconut scent of the Gorse bushes. The views from here stretch right across the marshes, giving you a full panoramic vista even though your only 50 metres above sea level.

The route then drops down towards Brancaster, and after crossing the coast road you end up in the Branodunum – the roman fort that gave the village it’s name. Although no remnants of the fort remain you can still clearly see the earthworks and outline of what was once there.

And then you’re back to your starting point at Brancaster.

You can download a routemap for this walk from the Norfolk County Council web site – it is the first half of Walk 09.

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Loseley Park Walled Garden

by on Jan.21, 2009, under Britain, English Gardens

In the few days that count as an English summer there is nothing better than a stroll around a beautiful garden.  Last July I was lucky enough to visit Loseley Park, near Guildford in Surrey, for a wander around their walled garden.

Gazebo in Loseley Park gardens

Gazebo in Loseley Park gardens

The garden is based on a design from Gertrude Jeckyl, and is split into several smaller themed plots.  The Rose Garden contains a good mix of traditional roses surrounded by low box hedges, in keeping with a historic garden.  The focal point of this area is the gazebo, with white roses crawling across it’s frame.  Other areas include the Flower Garden providing an almost garish splash of colour, in stark contrast with the tranquil serenity of the White Garden opposite.

My particular favourite was the Moat Walk, an old moat lined with a grass pathway and borders containing a magical array of flowers.  At the end of the moat is a stairway up through windswept flowers towards the dovecot.

Steps near the moat at Loseley Park Gardens

Steps near the moat at Loseley Park Gardens

And not forgeting the old Wisteria against the wall nearest the Hall, with it’s old branches that you think could have come straight out of a fairytale.

You can find out more about Loseley Park on their web site at www.loseley-park.co.uk.

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