The Bogtrotter » walk

Taking the towpath from Bath to Bradford upon Avon

The Bogtrotter — Sun, 15 Jan 2012 18:12:58 +0000

A beautiful and easy 9 mile walk along the Kennet and Avon canal from the centre of Bath to Bradford upon Avon.

Kennet and Avon Canal

Starting from Bath railway station, turn right out of the main entrance and go through the underpass beneath the station. This comes round to a footbridge that crosses the River Avon. Go across the bridge and turn left, following the road until it crosses the canal. Turn right onto the canal towpath and go up past a couple of locks. As the path levels out and you start to go past the backs of houses you catch glimses of the historic centre of Bath across the valley.

The rest of the route follows the tow-path, so it’s very easy to follow. Although it is all along the canal, the character of the walk evolves as you progress. Starting out you feel you are sneaking through the back streets of Bath, seeing a side of the City that many visitors miss. You go through a tunnel underneath an impressive house that straddles the canal, and after a short way emerge from the City to suddenly find yourself in the countryside.

Bridge over Kennet and Avon Canal

The view over the valley is quite striking as you slowly turn from walking NorthEast to South, following the contour of the valley edge as the river below loops round. The next notable features are the pub and church at Bathampton, ideal for an early stop. After another two miles through the countryside you suddenly appear at Dundas Aqueduct, which carries the canal across the River Avon to the other side of the valley. If you want a break – you can reach a great little cafe by taking the small path along the moorings that provide a side spur off the canal.

Carrying on along the canal, the next section is through woodland and again this gives a different character to the walk. After a couple of miles you come to a sharp right turn as the canal crosses Avoncliff Aqueduct, jumping back across the river valley below to the other side. Here you can see the railway station in the valley below, and just after the aqueduct is another canalside pub.

Canal Barge through swing bridge

The final stage of the walk is fairly stright as the canal moves towards Bradford. On your left you will see the old Tythe barn, which is worth a short detour to look around. Another few hundred metres takes you to a hump-backed bridge. TUrn left just before the bridge, and then follow the road down the hill into Bradford.

There is a regular train service between Bradford and Bath, so you can easily take the train back to the starting point. The railway also follows the Avon valley so you get another chance to see the views as you return.

Norfolk coast walk – Thornham to Hunstanton

The Bogtrotter — Sat, 29 Oct 2011 14:42:18 +0000

This is a six mile walk along the western end of the North Norfolk Coastal Path, from Thornham to Hunstanton.

Wide open beaches of North Norfolk

Park the car or take the bus to Hunstanton, then get the Coasthopper bus towards Wells and Cromer as far as The Orange Tree pub at Thornham. From the bus stop take the road towards the coast, walking past Thornham church on the right and a mix of traditional cottages. At a fork in the road, bear right and carry on until the road takes a sharp right turn. At this point, turn left and follow the footpath (signed with a National Trail acorn sign). After 50 yards turn right and cross a small footbridge, then continue on the path with grazing fields on your left and saltwater marshes to your right. Keep an eye out for herons who like to stand beside some of the shallow water channels looking for food.

At the end of the path turn right and follow the track for a short distance, before turning left and joining the footpath on top of the sea dyke. As you walk you now have an elevated view across the marshes, where myriad wading birds potter along searching for tasty morsels to eat. The path slowly winds its way along the dyke towards the sand dunes and Holme Bird Observatory.

Hunstanton Cliffs

From the onservatory, carry on through the small pine copse and follow the duck-board footpath into the sand dunes. To your right you get to see the full expanse of the wide beach, more often that not completely deserted. The path reaches a junction at the edge of Hunstanton Golf Club, where the Peddars Way joins the coastal path. (There are public toilets just across the golf course at the start of the Peddars Way.) Follow the footpath along the right hand edge of the golf course, continuing through the low dunes. Further along you will find a group of beach huts, hidden away from the wind in the dunes. The footpath goes behind the huts and continues alongside the golf club fairways until you reach a path crossroads.

If you want to spend some time on the beach – turn right here and drop down onto Old Hunstanton Beach. The main route continues straight on – climbing up and onto the Hunstanton cliffs. The path narrows to go past the cliff-top car park, then becomes a wide open grass area. Go past the old coastguard lookout and continue through the manicured flower beds, putting and bowling greens to return to the town centre of Hunstanton.

In search of the Avocet – Minsmere circular walk

The Bogtrotter — Sat, 08 Oct 2011 17:38:18 +0000

I’ve never been a big bird watcher but some birds just have a magical appeal. The Avocet is one of these, and Minsmere is the place to see them.

Avocet in Flight

Possibly the hardest part of this 5 and a half mile walk is finding your way to the start. The tiny village of Eastbridge is just a few miles north of Aldeburgh. Park at The Eel’s Foot pub, and then start the walk by heading a hundred yards south back along the road. From there turn left and take the public footpath towards the coast. After 20 yards take the right fork (signed F.P.) along a narrow path until you come out into a field. Follow the edge of the field until the far corner then carry straight on through the gap in the hedge. The track now follows a small water channel with signs suggesting that otters can be seen.

As you walk the expanse of Minsmere RSPB reserve opens out on your right. The track continues all the way to the sluice gate next to the dunes. On your right you will also see the ruins of an old chapel. From the sluice gate turn left and follow the path behind the dunes. Along this path are two bird hides where you can watch the action in the reserve. The first is open to the elements but the second is a two storey wooden hide perfect viewing across the wet mud flats.

After you’ve had your fill of watching the birds, rejoin the path behind the dunes. At the end of the reserve the path rises through a car park to the National Trust property and tea rooms (don’t take the path through the reserve signposted for the reserve centre).

From here you turn inland and take the path alongside the toilet block that leads to the heather moor. Pick the right time of year and this area is awash with violets and purples – a marked contrast to the beige of the sand dunes behind you. As you approach a small wood, drop off the main track and take the small path through the woods. This small woodland provides some shade and shelter – again in stark contrast to the rest of the walk.

Avocets at Minsmere

From the woods you exit to a small road. Go straight across and take the path which follows the fence across some grassland. Here you can often see a blur of rabbits ears bouncing off in all directions. THe path once again goes through a small wood, this time joining a tarmac road. Follow this to a T junction, where you turn left and continue for 600 yards back to the Eels Foot pub. Now you can rest and enjoy a well earned lunch in the beer garden.

Marlow river walk

The Bogtrotter — Sat, 16 Jul 2011 16:03:57 +0000

The perfect walk for a Sunday morning – a 3 and a 1/2 mile stroll along the River Thames following the Thames Path from Marlow to Bourne End.

Marlow Reflections

Starting from Marlow railway station, go straight ahead and down the hill towards the river. Just before you reach the river take a narrow alleyway on the left behind the Church (signposted as the Thames Path). This goes through to a back road that has a small mooring point on the river. If you stand on the jetty you get a great view of the suspension bridge that is the main river crossing in Marlow.

Carry on through another back alley and you will come out again next to the river, where you can go onto the small foot bridges and across onto the lock island. Again you get picturesque views across the river, both back towards Marlow and down by the lock and the lock-keepers cottage.

Return to the Thames Path and carry on out of the town. You emerge from the houses to a small field and then have to go under the main bypass road before you hit the real countryside. From here you are alongside the river and get to wave at the passing boats pottering up and down the waterway.

Boat Moored at Marlow

The path opens out into fields, and you continue to follow the river at the edge of the fields for the next mile and a half. Eventually the fields end but the path carries on along the river, firstly through a small park and then an alleyway as you approach the boats moored up at Bourne End Marina.

Carry on past the marina until you reach the railway bridge over the river. Just after the bridge take a narrow path left, away from the river. This opens out into a small cul-de-sac. At the end of the cul-de-sac turn left and you will arrive at Bourne End railway station. From here you can get the train back to the start point at Marlow.

You can download a map covering this walk from the Thames Path web site.

Amble through the Lakes – walk from Grasmere to Ambleside

The Bogtrotter — Sun, 04 Oct 2009 14:23:51 +0000

When you think of walking in the Lake District you immediately think of heading for the fells and mountain-tops, but there are also plenty of low level walks that provide equally enjoyable walking. This is an gentle but varied five mile walk between two of Lakeland’s most visited sites – Grasmere village and Ambleside. The walk is fairly easy going, with little ascent and just one tricky section.

Starting from Grasmere Church (resting place of poet William Wordsworth) take the small road opposite, past the car park and garden centre. You follow this road past a hotel and out of the village, getting your first views of Grasmere lake on your left. You then approach close to the lake, passing a small boathouse and cafe. The road then climbs up and slightly away from the lake, giving fine views across to Grasmere with the village lying underneath the bulk of Great Rigg.

Having past a couple of housing (including one with a gothic looking dark garden) you will see a kissing gate on your left next to a bend in the road. Go through the gate and descend down the steps to the lake edge. You can then follow the southern edge of Grasmere lake right around to the small weir at the end – avoiding the temptation to take one of the paths up to higher ground. Here you will see a footbright crossing the river, which many people take to return to Grasmere. However, our route carries straight on along the riverbank. Here the path meanders through a native woodland which rises up on both sides of the valley, the confined feeling in contrast to the openness of the early part of the walk near the lake.

View over towards Rydal Water

The path then reaches a T junction, with another footbridge on the left across the river. Again we ignore the bridge and turn right, back through the woods and climbing until we reach a style over a stone wall. You can see Loughrigg Fell rising in from of you and if you turn aroung you will see Rydal Water open before you. Turn left and join the track that descends slowly down to the Water, eventually following the waters edge. There is a short tricky section across some rocks beside the water’s edge, before the path splits. Take the higher route away from the water through the woods, which becomes a wider track and eventually tarmaced as you reach some houses. If you are thirsty you can divert to the pub in Rydal, or if you are lucky you will see the ice cream van at the car park.

Carry on past the car park until you reach the quaint stone pelter bridge, with the main road opposite. Instead of crossing the bridge, turn right just before and follow the road that crosses the open grassland before passing some houses on the right. Opposite the houses you will see some stepping stones across the river, although when I was there these were all underwater. Continue along the road, which winds its way along the edge of the valley floor. After about one mile you will see a footbridge on your left, which you cross over to enter Rothay Park on the outskirts of Ambleside. Cross through the park an you will then pass a school and enter the town proper.

There are plenty of places to eat and drink in Ambleside, before getting the regular bus back to Grasmere. The route is all on OS map OL7 The English Lakes: Sout-eastern area.

Whitby to Robin Hood’s Bay coastal walk

The Bogtrotter — Sat, 09 May 2009 09:52:56 +0000

Whitby to Robin Hood’s Bay is one of the most renowned coastal walks in England. As long as the wind is not in your face, it is an enjoyable seven mile walk taking in some spectacular cliffs and scenery.

When you hear the town of Whitby mentioned you immediately think of fish. Not only is it one of the biggest fishing harbours in the UK, it also is the spiritual home to fish and chips. Wander down into the town on any evening and your nose will be assaulted by the smell of fish and chips drifting out of the numerous cafes that line the streets. You know you shouldn’t, but how can you resist?

Whitby Abbey

The walk starts from Whitby centre. Walk through the old part of town on the east side of the river, and head for the 199 steps up to Whitby Abbey. After you climb the steps, pass through St Mary’s churchyard to reach the majestic ruins of the abbey, sat high up on the top of the cliffs. Follow the wall around the abbey until you reach the signed path (marked Cleveland Way) which crosses a field to get to the cliff edge. From here the route follows the sea edge all the way. After about one mile you reach a caravan park. Just follow the road through it for 200 yards before picking up the path again and returning to the cliff tops.

Sea Cliffs towards Whitby

The views out to sea and along the coast are great. It’s no surprise therefore that this is part of the Cleveland Way long distance trail, and also the final stage of Alfred Wainwright’s famous Coast-to-Coast walk. Many of the cliffs are packed with seagulls and other birds nesting, and their calls are a steady background soundtrack as you progress along the route.

The next landmark on the route is Whitby Fog Signal, two great loudspeakers sat on top of what looks like a converted concrete bunker. Alongside the fog signal is a rather stunted lighthouse, that makes use of it’s position high on the cliffs to negate the need to tower up as we expect our lighthouses to behave. The path goes round the back of the lighthouse and continues along the clifftops.

The route then progresses across a small valley that cut across, giving you a short steep drop down some steps to cross a stream then up the other side. You then pass a curious uphill waterfall, where the decending water is caught by the wind and ends up being blown back up the hill. A second similar valley a bit further along was covered in Spring flowers when we went though, taking advantage of the shelter and the sun on it’s South-facing edge.

As the route progresses you gradually turn from facing east as you leave Whitby until you round the headland above Robin Hood’s bay. The path turns around the headland until you are facing SouthWest as you approach the outskirts of the village. A couple of kissing-gates later you start to pass the guest houses as you descend towards the village centre.

Gorse bushes add to the views

The old part of Robin Hood’s Bay at the bottom of the hill is a picture-postcard coastal village, with the usual supply of small tourist shops and cafes to replenish you. There are regular buses back to Whitby, with even a roughly hourly service on Sundays. Whilst it’s not easy to get lost, you should really get the OS map OL27 (North Yorks Moors Eastern Area) or download a map from Anquet Maps.

Sentier des Douaniers – part two

The Bogtrotter — Sat, 28 Mar 2009 19:20:51 +0000

In part one of the Sentiers des Douaniers walk we went from Maccinaggio around the coast to Barcaggio, where we spent the night. Now we complete the second half of the walk around to Centuri.

From Barcaggio the next stage is a simple walk along the coast to Tollare, the only other habitation on the route. This stretch give you the best views of the Ile de la Giaglia, a small island of the north coast.

View out to sea

Tollare is also the last place you can get water, so make sure you have enough before you set off. From here you start to climb up onto the grassy hills, then you see the Capo Grosso lighthouse down at the foot of the hills to your right. This part of the route is very exposed with no shade, so is best avoided in the middle of the day during the summer. But the views across the maquis scrub out to see are spectacular. The sense of isolation is great, with the trail cutting through the maquis is the only sign of human activity.

The route then starts to gently descend off the hills as you work your way down to the fishing village of Centuri, where the Sentier ends. The village peeks in and out of view as you slowly wind round the slopes towards it, but eventually you come to a few houses and then the village opens up in front of you.

Centuri

Centuri is a typical picturesque mediterranean fishing harbour, with several small bar restaurants and a few shops. The ideal place to relax and have a drink before making your way back.

The final challenge is for us was to return to our starting point at Macinaggio. We walked up the only road into Centuri until we reached the main road, and then hitched back (which worked for us). All told, this was a fantastic coastal walk with a multitude of interesting things to see on the way.

Before you start the walk – visit the tourist office in Macinaggio which gives out a free map and route description of the trail (a poor quality copy is available on the web site).

Le Sentier des Douaniers – a walk into the wilderness

The Bogtrotter — Sat, 21 Mar 2009 09:34:55 +0000

The Sentier du Douaniers (which translates as the custom officers path) follows the coast around the tip of Cap Corse, the long peninsula that sticks out from the northern end on the island of Corsica. The first half of the walk is fairly flat, but the second half in more demanding with more hills.

The route is just under 20km and could be completed in one day (official guides say 7h45 minutes of walking), but we chose the more leisurely approach of doing it over two days with an overnight stop in a hotel.

View back to Macinaggio

The walk starts in the small village of Macinaggio, which has a tourist marina and a couple of shops where you can get your provisions. From Macinaggio the route heads north along the coast – just walk along to the end of the beach and follow the path. After walking around the first headland you drop to a beach where the only things that are normally found sunbathing are the local cows. As you walk along the path you cannot fail to smell the mixture of scents from the “maquis”, the herbs and shrubs that make up the vegetation that covers the landscape.

Tour De Santa Maria

The next bay contains the ruin of the Tour de Santa Maria tower stands with it’s feet in the water. Dramatically sliced in half, the remains of this three storey tower sit just off the beach and you can walk across to it to have a look at what’s keft.

Continuing along this classic coastal walk you see the Tour d’Agnello tower standing proud on a small headland marking the north-eastern point of the island. Before you reach the tower the path cuts inland, away from the cliffs, before turning and following a track straight down to the tower.

You then drop down to the beach which gently curves round the bay. As you leave the far end of the beach you enter Barcaggio, the small village that is the half-way point on the walk. We then stayed the night in Barcaggio’s only hotel – the Hôtel La Giraglia (Open 01/04 to 30/09 – Tél 04-95-35-60-54). The hotel has no restaurant and no televisions. But who needs a tv when you can leave your bedroom window open and listen to the waves gently lapping against the shore. This has to be one of the most remote-feeling hotels I’ve ever stayed at – a real place to “get away from it all”.

If you do stay overnight you need to consider where you will eat. Barcaggio only has one restaurant – U Pescadore which specialises in seafood and is in an ugly prefab building on the quayside (Tel 04-95-35-61-64). It is only open from June to September and otherwise it is 7km to Chez Néné on the main road.

From Barcaggio the Sentier des Douaniers continues round to Centuri Port, which is covered in part two of the walk.

LLeyn Peninsula coastal walk – of cliffs and golf balls

The Bogtrotter — Sun, 15 Mar 2009 11:39:32 +0000

The Lleyn peninsula is tucked away in the North of Wales, pointing like a finger into the Irish Sea. The coast has some superb walking yet is much less walked than the more famous neighbours down in Pembrookshire. This 8 mile coastal walk goes from Nefyn to Tudweiliog, with a regular bus service running for you to complete the circuit.

Lleyn Coastal Path

Starting from Nefyn a short walk takes you to the coast path above the beach. Follow the path around the cliff tops through the scented gorse bushes. From here you can see the picturesque little harbour of Porthdinllaen tucked under the cliffs in the distance, with Ty Coch (its red pub) standing out. Continue until you reach a road going down to a slipway on the beach. I prefer to continue by going up and through the golf course here, but you can also go down the slipway and follow the beach round as long as the tide is not in.

Porthdinllaen

Follow the path along the clifftops until you are nearly over the top of Porthdinllaen, then drop down to the hamlet. Pass through the arch in the buildings to come into a courtyard, then carry on the rocky coastline. This rocky section is a little more difficult underfoot, but is passable with care. You will then come to Lifeboat Bay with the Lifeboat Station which has protected boats in the area since 1864.

Cross over the slipway and then climb up the steep steps to join the golfers on the course above. You can rest in the shelters here and watch the golfers before following the track down the middle of the course. Then pick up the path to the right which goes down the side of the fairway to rejoin the clifftop.

Walk across Nefyn Golf Course

Leave the golf course behind and continue along the coast. The coastline becomes a bit more rugged and wild now, with hardly a sole in sight. However the path is fairly distinct and easy to follow, with just a couple of slightly tricky bits where the path has been eroded back by small streams. The cormorants and seals provide welcome company along the route – the cormorants diving off the rocks into the sea whilst the seals lounge around on the sand and rocks.

Keep going until you reach the path cutting inland next to a small caravan site. Take this path then follow a small path across the fields to Tudweiliog village, where you can get some refreshments in the shop and wait for the bus back to Nefyn (click for timetable).

To do this walk you will need OS Landranger Map number 123 (Lleyn Peninsula). Alternatively you can download the map from Anquet Maps.

A walk in the Park – Richmond Park

The Bogtrotter — Wed, 04 Mar 2009 09:32:18 +0000

Richmond Park would be just like any other big London green space if it wasn’t for one thing – the Red Deer that wander freely around.

Red Deer in Richmond Park

Whatever the time of year, you don’t need much of an excuse to go down the the park. Whether it’s for a brisk walk on a Winter’s day, or a relaxing evening stroll in Summer, the deer will be waiting. The deer usually stick together in a couple of fairly large herds, so they shouldn’t be too hard to spot. Our first sight of them was their antlers sticking up like tree branches out of the firns and grasses. However, Richmond Park is the largest of the London Royal Parks (over 2500 acres) so it might take you a while to track them down.

Once you’ve found them, you will be surprised how close you can get. The deer are very used to people in the park so they don’t run off at the sight of you. But don’t mistake them for pets – they are wild animals and you should not approach them too closely or try to touch them. For photographers they are a delight – you can spend hours with a camera getting up close and personal for that perfect shot.

You can find out more about the park, including directions, from the Richmond Park web site.